ALL ABOUT ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

ALL ABOUT HYDROXY ACIDS
Alpha Hydroxy & Beta Hydroxy Acids

Caution: For those allergic or sensitive to Salicylic Acid
or Fruit Acids- If you have allergies to salicylates (such
as you cannot eat fruit), we recommend you DO NOT
use any of our chemical peels since they are all fruit
based acids.

Those with Sensitive Skin, or those with Certain Skin Conditions, such as Rosacea or
Eczema, should NOT USE ANY Alpha Hydroxy Peels! Beta Hydroxy (Salicylic Acid
Peels) are more suitable to use!

Hydroxy Acid skin care is one of the oldest and newest market options
in skin care. Centuries ago, women applied old wine, sour milk, lemon
juice and other acidic products to help reduce the signs of aging. Today
these products are more refined and are known as hydroxy acids.

Trying to make sense of the hydroxy acids is very confusing with all of
the new and innovative products on the market. Basically, hydroxy
acids penetrate the top layers of the skin, epidermis and upper dermis,
to achieve exfoliation (sloughing of old skin cells). Exfoliation stimulates
the skin and healthy cells are regenerated. The effect essentially is “anti-
aging.” The skin is smoother and softer with an overall lessening of fine
wrinkles and skin discoloration, making room for regrowth of new skin.

The hydroxy acids are also used to improve scaling, precancerous growths
(actinic keratoses) on sun-damaged skin. In addition, there is also great
benefit with acne. Dead skin cells are exfoliated, opening the pores. Since
hydroxy acids are in an infinite array of products, how does one choose
the correct formulation for his or her skin condition?

The following is a brief explanation of the advantages in each category:

The Difference Between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids

The main difference between Alpha Hydroxy acids and Beta Hydroxy acid is their
lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while Beta Hydroxy
acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that Beta Hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into
the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up in-
side the pore. Because of this difference in properties, Beta Hydroxy acid is better
used on oily skin with blackheads/whiteheads and Sensitive Skin. Alpha Hydroxy
acids are better used on Un-Sensitive thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts
are not a problem.

ALL ABOUT ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

Alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are
found in most of the best skin care
products on the market. Dermotol-
ogists, Cosmetologists and Plastic
Surgeons use AHA in their chemical
peels, using different strengths.

Known for their anti-aging and
smoothing properties, alpha-hydroxy
acid skin care products are an ideal
solution for those who are concerned
with acne, uneven skin texture, blotchy
or uneven skin tone, the way the skin feels
and aging gracefully.

What Are Alpha-Hydroxy Acids?

Alpha-hydroxy acids are acids that naturally occur several food products. The
vast majority of the alpha-hydroxy acids found in skin care products, work
topically to exfoliate the surface of the skin. The following alpha-hydroxy acids
are commonly found in skin care:

* Malic acid, which is derived from apples

* Tartaric acid, taken from grapes

* Glycolic acid, harvested from sugar cane

* Lactic acid, which comes from milk

* Citric Acid, Fruit Acid from citrus fruits

Of these 5 alpha-hydroxy acids, glycolic acid is the most popular. Glycolic acid
is molecularly smaller than the other AHAs, allowing it penetrate the surface
of the skin and work in within the skin tissue. Some alpha-hydroxy skin care
products will use just one or two AHAs in a product, while others may use a
combination of all of them.

Who Can Use Alpha-Hydroxy Skin Care?

Alpha-Hydroxy skin care produts are recommended for most skin types.
AHA’s are probably one of the most versatile and multi-purpose ingre-
dients when it comes to high quality skin care. They can be useful to both
oily/acneic skin types and the “mature” skin group. This is a rare combin-
ation. DO NOT USE ON Sensitive Skin!

Used in anti-aging skin care products to prevent premature aging of the
skin, they are ideal for those who wish to reduce the appearance of fine
lines and wrinkles or treat discoloration that comes with age.

The Benefits of Alpha-Hydroxy Acid Skin Care Products

Alpha-hydroxy acid skin care products provide many benefits to the skin, many
of which will be immediately noticeable. Over time, many of these benefits will
produce long-term results:

Rapid, but gentle exfoliation of dead, dry skin cells
Stimulates collagen production to smooth fine lines and wrinkles
Treats acne or other minor blemishes
Promotes cellular renewal
Increases circulation to the layers of skin
Leaves skin feeling soft and firm
Most over-the-counter AHA skin care products are safe for every day use
Reduction in the appearance of age spots, freckles, and hyperpigmentation

Alpha-hydroxy skin care products are essential to any anti-aging skin care
routine. Their natural original and long-time use in the cosmetic industry
demonstrates a level of safety that is not easily found.

AHA’s increase exfoliation by loosening the
“glue” that holds skin cells together. In doing
so, the dead skin cells are removed, oil is
controlled, the look of fine lines is reduced,
skin coloring is improved and the tone is
evened out. Leaving your complexion
glowing and smooth.

Glycolic Acid has a smaller molecular structure
and goes further into the skin. Because it
penetrates so well, the exfoliation is more
complete.

What makes this interesting is that because of how deep Glycolic Acid
can go ...it almost takes AHA’s into the realm of being categorized as a
drug. Almost! The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Report last looked into
them in 1998 and the FDA should hopefully be doing a review again
soon. As a result the percentages and pH are strictly implemented to
protect the consumer.

Professional Chemical Peels

Dermatologists and Plastic Surgeons, who all use AHA's in their chemical peels
can use 50-70%, but this results in burning sensations, severe peeling and
redness, some oozing…usually with a recovery time of a week or two.

Cosmotologists can use up to 20-30% AHA with a pH of no less than 3. With
this method, you will feel severe tingling and possible peeling up to a week
recovery.

Home use (over the counter products) can only use 10% or below and a pH of
3.5 or higher but you still receive all the beautiful advantages of AHA’s, without
the high expense or pain! Though you won't feel burning or peel, there can still
be side effects of redness, tingling and some itching though. A small amount is
ok, but if it becomes unbearable, just rinse away with water.

AHA’s are water soluble and less irritating to the skin than benzoyl peroxide, which
makes them great for acneic skin. If you can find an AHA product that has salicylic
in it, even better! Because it’s fat-soluble, it can dissolve the oil that clogs pores,
lifting out the bacteria and exfoliating away the clumped skin cells.

ALL ABOUT BETA HYDROXY ACIDS

Beta Hydroxy Acids, namely Salicylic Acids,
are also named from the molecular compo-
sition of the acid. These acids are unique in
that they are readily absorbed by the fat
properties of the skin. Skin is composed of
water and fat molecules that limit penetra-
tion from the outside. Different from alpha
hydroxy acid, this acid is unique in that it
can penetrate into the pores of the skin.
This helps clear the pores and exfoliate the
skin. Beta hydroxy acid also has anti-inflam-
matory properties that result in less irritation,
burning and stinging.

Beta hydroxy acid is reported to improve
wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigment-
ation of photodamaged skin after at least 6
months of daily application. Beta hydroxy
acid found in skin-care products works best
in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH
of 3 to 4.

Beta Hydroxy Acid and Irritation

Beta hydroxy acid appears to be less irritating than alpha hydroxy acid even though
it penetrates deeper into the pore. This occurs because salicylic acid is derived from
acetylsalicylic acid, or aspirin. Aspirin has anti-inflammatory properties, and salicylic
acid retains many of these anti-inflammatory properties. Despite this fact, beta hy-
droxy acid can still cause skin irritation. Symptoms of irritation include redness, burn-
ing, itching, pain, and possibly scarring. People with darker colored skin are at a higher
risk of scarring pigment changes with beta hydroxy acid.

Beta Hydroxy Acid and Sun Sensitivity

The use of beta hydroxy acid can increase sun sensitivity by 50%. It appears that beta
hydroxy acid may be able to reverse some of the damage caused by photoaging, but at
the same time it makes the skin more susceptible to photoaging. It is clear that anyone
using beta hydroxy acid must use a good sunscreen that contains UVA and UVB protection.

Alpha/Beta Hydroxy Peel Cream
Ingredients: Distilled Water, Organic Aloe Vera Gel, Sunflower
Oil, Jojoba Oil,   Meadowfoam Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Alpha
Hydroxy Fruit Acids-   31% Lactic Acid, 15% Glycolic Acid,
3% Citric Acid, BetaHydroxy   Acid- 51% Salicylic Acid, Nat-
ural Preservatives: Potassium Sorbate, Grapefruit Seed
Extract, Vitamin E, Geranium Essential Oil,   Ascorbic Acid
(Vitamin C), Citric Acid, Rosemary Oil

Our light peel cream with Alpha Hydroxy fruits acids & Beta Hydroxy
Acids (Salicylic Acid), revitalizes, clears & brightens your skin, while
it dissolves lifeless skin cells and helps eliminate impurities. One of
the best things you can do for your skin !

THIS IS NOT A HARSH CHEMICAL PEEL. It doesn't "peel skin" as we
know it, but gently lifts off more hardened, dried skin cells than can
be achieved by scrubs or any other "exfoliating" product.

Dead-cell accumulation prevents treatment products from penetrating
and keeps skin tone from looking fresh and vibrant. For aging and prob-
lem skin, peel creams are absolutely vital.

Directions: Simply apply a thin film to skin, leave on for 20-30 minutes and rub
                 off with dry wash cloth. A light tingle is normal, but If you feel any
                 stinging, wash off immediately. Use 2-3 Times a week for optimum
                 results.

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